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Archives for July 2020

Campsite Spotlight: Lake Ritchie, Isle Royale National Park, MI

July 30, 2020 by pbryant Leave a Comment

Lake Ritchie

Scale is 0 to 4.

Time of year visited: September

  • View: 2 Secluded lake in the woods.
  • Water: 4 You’re on a lake.
  • Accessibility: 1 Getting to the island itself is a challenge. It’s a long ferry ride or a seaplane or your own boat. Our journey to Lake Ritchie included a seaplane, a twenty minute boat ride, and a two mile hike.
  • Solitude: 2 Most of the campsites on the island are tent sites spaced along an area with some foliage between them for privacy, or a community of wooden shelters. Lake Ritchie was the former and they could’ve been spaced out a little more.
  • Comfort: 2 Flat and firm on a rock plateau on the lake. No fires. Minimal bugs in September.
  • Coolness: 2.5 Being on an island, even a large one, is pretty cool. Throw in a handful of wolves and it gets even better.

Of Note: Isle Royale National Park is the only place in the world where moose and wolves live together without the presence of bear. At one end of the island is the Rock Harbor Lodge where you can spend a night or two before and/or after your backpacking.

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Gear Review: Sleepingo Sleeping Pad

July 24, 2020 by pbryant Leave a Comment

My REI Flash sleeping pad blew a seam over Memorial Day Weekend in Voyageurs National Park, creating a cylinder running the length of the pad that was much larger than the rest, and an uneven sleeping surface. I thought it might be time for a new one. I knew it highly unlikely, but I still wondered if I might be able to somehow fix it. It had served me well over the years.

It’s strange how we can get attached to inanimate objects like trail gear- especially a sleeping pad (Ty) that had mold growing on the inside of it , or a puffy coat (Jack) with more patches than down fill. Then Ty sprung a leak the next day when I jumped on him too aggressively while getting in the lake to go for a float, leaving me flat on the ground that night. Ty said “enough” (I heard it) and so did I. Sadly, we parted ways.

When I got home and began searching for a new inflatable pad, I looked at the usual suspects: REI, Thermarest, Nemo, etc. Then I stumbled upon the Sleepingo sleeping pad at less than half the cost of the majority.

I was looking for something with some decent thickness and R-value that is relatively light and still packs down small. The Sleepingo packs down to just larger than a liter water bottle and weighs 14.5 ounces.

Slightly larger than a liter bottle. You might even be able to stuff it inside there if you so desire.

It comes with its own patch kit, though I’m not sure if this is good customer service or a harbinger of things to come. Regardless, it is better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.

Another nice feature is that it only took about a dozen large breaths for me to blow it up. This is good for when a flatlander like me is inflating at high altitude. I’d rather not pass out and roll down the mountain.

At first look, I was a bit worried about comfort. While the Sleepingo is 2″ thick, the criss-cross pattern of the seams makes it much thinner in some areas. I worried I would feel those rocks and twigs under me, or that my hip might go numb while sleeping on my side.

I had read a couple reviews that the pad had leaked on first use so I wanted to check it out ahead of hitting the trail. A power outage during hot weather gave me the perfect excuse and I slept on it in my basement. It was comfortable and kept the coldness of the concrete away, and more importantly it didn’t leak. However, I was sleeping on a very smooth surface with thick carpet so I didn’t get too excited.

The black rubber flap valve is great for deflation. Simply pop it out with your finger and you have instant deflation. No pushing or rolling the air out.

One valve for both inflation and deflation is nice. The black flap stays in for inflation and pops out for deflation.

I then tried it on the trail in Yellowstone National Park. It was my wife’s first backpacking overnighter so I bought a second one. I had other larger pads at home that she could have used but since we would be flying I liked the compact size of the Sleepingo when deflated, and the price, so I purchased a second one. I was doubtful that she would sleep comfortably on it. Our last camping trip together was on a queen size air mattress at least a foot thick.

Morning came and my wife and I were both pleasantly surprised by the comfort. We did not feel the ground or the cold from below, even though it dropped to 35 degrees that night. It will need several more uses without leaks before it can pass the durability inspection. Assuming it does, this sleeping pad, or Sally as we’ve come to know her, is well worth the money.

Specs

Cost: $39.95 on Amazon

Weight: 14.5 ounces

Dimensions: 75″ x 23″

R-Value: 2.1

Not Tested: Durability over multiple trips.

Would I recommend: Yes. While there are lighter, more compact, and more comfortable pads out there, the Sleepingo scores well in all those categories. Throw in the nice inflation/deflation features and the comparatively low cost and this is a great value, assuming it holds up to numerous uses.

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Patch kit included.

Hiking in the Yorkshire Dales, UK

July 10, 2020 by pbryant 2 Comments

This week the United Kingdom announced it would not allow travelers from the United States. Meanwhile, the European Union is now allowing other EU countries to travel amongst themselves. However, they are not allowing US visitors. This is due to the soaring number of coronavirus cases in the US and a not-so-subtle indictment of the way we in the US have mishandled the pandemic. Since Americans can’t travel to the UK, I thought I’d bring the UK to us.

Location: Yorkshire Dales – Settle to Malham and back

Time of year visited: February

While I haven’t hiked much in the UK, this is one that I did a few years back in Lancaster, England. Specifically, it was from Settle to Malham, and back, taking in all of the nice geographic features near Malham, such as Malham Cove, Janet’s Foss, and the Gordale Scar.

Hiking out of Settle

After flying all of Friday night from the states, I arrived in Manchester on Saturday morning and took the train to Leeds where I dropped my suitcase and hopped on another train. I took this train from Leeds to the little town of Settle in North Yorkshire, where I promptly bought a map in the station. I stopped in a small store that sold rock climbing equipment and asked where to find the footpath to Malham.

The path climbs up and out of Settle heading east through Langcliffe CP (Civil Parish) through rolling, rocky hills. Just outside of Settle the byway crosses a north-south footpath that, according to the map, leads to some caves. I didn’t take the time to check them out.

Crossing the Yorkshire Dales.

Hiking across the Dales you see many grazing farm animals and beautiful old stone fences. You can’t help but feel you are hiking across someone’s farmland and, I guess, you are. But in the UK hikers have legal right of way on these paths and byways. In the states I would have one eye open for an angry farmer with a shotgun.

The Ing Scar as you near Malham. Note the cliff-dwelling sheep.

About 6 to 6 1/2 miles from Settle the pathway splits, with Penine Way heading north toward the Malham Tarn (small lake), and Watlowes heading southeast towards Malham. Here you pass through a small and scenic depression calls Ing Scar, complete with sheep grazing on the little cliffside.

Please mind the gap. The top of Malham Cove can be a leg breaker if you’re not careful.

Shortly after Ing Scar, the path leads to the top of Malham Cove where a glacier melt once carved deep channels through the limestone pavement before cascading over the 80m drop to the cove below. Apparently, the waterfall still occurs breifly once in a great while.

Looking down on the village of Malham, from atop Malham Cove.
Malham Cove

Malham is a small village with a few shops and inns. I stayed at The Buck Inn where I enjoyed dinner by the fire, a comfortable room and a traditional English breakfast.

The Buck Inn

The Buck Inn also had a hikers bar with traditional Yorkshire beers. I enjoyed a few of those as well, my favorite being Old Peculiar, by Theakston.

Mires Barn?

On Sunday morning I took Pennine Way south out of town and after only about 1/4 mile another footpath tees into Pennine Way near an old stone barn that I believe is called Mires Barn. I took this path which runs northeast initially and it led me to Janet’s Foss, a small waterfall and scenic creek in a moss-covered depression. There is also a small cave next to the waterfall.

Janet’s Foss

The footpath roughly follows the creek, called Gordale Beck, into the Gordale Scar. You can follow the path and beck into the scar and the multi-colored limestone cliffs rise up around you.

Approaching the Gordale Scar.

Inside the scar, Gordale Beck has a series of small waterfalls and many hikers follow the path up these falls, which takes a bit of slippery scrambling. The falls were closed to climbing when I was there due to nesting birds.

The lower falls of Gordale Scar.

I backtracked out of Gordale Scar and went off-trail and across field to circle around to the top of the falls. The newly fallen snow made the rocks extremely slippery.

The upper falls of Gordale Scar.
Some colorful sheep.

I found a road and followed it back to The Buck Inn where I had a lunch of crisps and an Old Peculiar before heading back towards the Settle train station. I would have liked to check out the Malham Tarn but had to catch the last train which was still about a 5 1/2 to 6 mile walk away.

Snow awaits in the Dales.

I walked north out of town on Cove Road towards to the bridleway, which lies south of the path I had come to town on, and is a shorter route back to Settle.

A last look at Malham Cove.

Reaching the trail I could see the snow was beginning to pile up. As I traveled West through the Dales the snow fell harder and visibility was very low at times. Where there was no stone fence to follow, it became challenging to keep sight of the trail.

I met a couple from Manchester who were doing the same hike that I was but had decided to turn back. They said they had lost the trail and it was getting worse ahead. I told them that I had a map and compass and that Settle lies directly west so I could get them there even if we had to go off-trail. They cast their lots in with mine and we hiked together towards Settle.

After a few minutes of trying to hike due west across the thick grasses and rough terrain, I told them it would be easier to walk back to the last gate we had passed through and pick the trail back up. We did this and by carefully watching our way, were able to stay on the trail. The remainder of the hike was very wet and white, but it was greatly enjoyable chatting with the couple.

The trail begins to slowly disappear. Luckily there is a wall to follow in this portion.

If you’re looking to get a taste of the English country side, this is a lovely hike that is relatively easy to moderate. It can be done as a long day hike or an overnight trip. If I ever get back to the area I will do it again and check out more of the Dales, including Malham Tarn.

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Backcountry Flapjacks

July 6, 2020 by pbryant Leave a Comment

I tried this trail-stable pancake recipe at home before I trail tested it at Voyageurs National Park. If it takes good at home, it will likely taste really good on the trail. And it did. It comes from the May/June issue of Backpacker magazine (p63) with only one alteration; I added the Butter Buds which I thought gave it a little richer flavor.

Ingredients for 2 servings (makes five 4″ diameter pancakes):

3/4 cup whole-wheat flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 Tablespoons coconut milk powder

2 teaspoons sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons oil

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

3/4 cup water

1 Tablespoon Butter Buds

Ingredients (for 3 servings) packed and ready to go.

At Home:

Combine the flour, baking powder, salt, coconut milk powder, sugar, and Butter Buds in a zip-top bag. Put oil and vanilla in a leak-proof container.

In Camp:

Empty the dry mix into a bowl. Add the oil, vanilla, and water and stir to combine. The batter should be loose but not runny, like muffin batter. Don’t overmix; some lumps are okay. Heat your non-stick skillet over medium heat and scoop a 1/4 cup of the batter into the pan at a time. Cook until the edges begin to dry out and the pancake easily slides off the pan, about 3-4 minutes, then flip and cook the other side until cooked through, about 2-3 more minutes. In other words, cook it like it’s a pancake. Eat as is or add your favorite topping. We used pure maple syrup and/or peanut butter.

Stats:

Weight – 3.4 ounces

Protein – 8 grams

Calories – 412

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Have a Berry Happy 4th of July!

July 4, 2020 by pbryant Leave a Comment

At my house, July 4th means many things. One of them is that it’s time to pick wild raspberries. A good thing about living in northern Indiana is that we don’t have to share them with bears. After staying up to watch a great fireworks display last night, this morning I put on bug spray, pants, and a long-sleeved shirt, and headed into the thicket and oppressive heat.

When picking wild berries here in northern Indiana we do deal with mosquitos, chiggers, spiders, lots of poison ivy, and an occasional garter snake. But it’s worth it since these will be used to make and top many desserts, as well as turn into some jam.

Happy 4th of July!

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